Cat Blog

Domesticated cats have been gaining in popularity in the United States. It is projected that by the year 2010 there will be far more cats than dogs. Noted for their independence, cats can also be loving and loyal to their owners. They adjust well to indoor living, take great care in grooming themselves, and are easily trained to use a cat box. Cats, when they’re not asleep, are observers. They stare into corners and spend hours sitting in windowsills. They don’t bark, they don’t whine; they purr. Occasionally, they scold.

Cats are also predatory, and some are very good mousers. In a flourishing society of condominiums and high-rise apartment buildings, many landlords ban dogs and accept cats. One building manager puts it like this: “As long as the cat doesn’t wander through the halls and annoy others, I don’t see any problem.”

Cats, more than any other mammal, exhibit similar attributes and actions, no matter if they are wild or tame. Lions, tigers, leopards, wild cats, panthers, and house cats look similar and act very much alike–they are all predatory, nocturnal, fastidious, and defensive, but the domesticated cat is much smaller than its wild relatives. How did the wild cat first become domesticated, and where did it happen?

Origin of Cats

Looking back to the Late Eocene epoch (43.6 to 36.6 million years ago), it has been discovered that the “cat pattern” was already well established in the evolution of modern mammals. The earliest cats were easily recognizable as the ancestors of present-day felines. Other mammals had not yet evolved into a recognizable form. Typical cats (subfamily Felinae) appeared about 10 million years ago and have changed very little since that time.

The Anatomy of the Cat

Why is it that cats are able to curl up on the narrowest ledges, squeeze under the smallest spaces, or disappear at will when they sense an intrusion. The anatomy of the cat gives it great elasticity. It has a flexible spine and uses its tail and inner ear to maintain balance. Because of its inner-ear balance, it almost always lands on its feet when it falls and can jump from and to great heights without injury. For this reason, the cat is said to have nine lives.

The Historical Background of Cats

The history of the cat lends itself to drama, controversy, heroism, and mysticism on a somewhat uneven road from its domestication around 1500 B.C. to the present. From the moment the dog became domesticated, humans accepted it as a loyal and loving servant of man. The cat, however, has not been so blessed. It has been an icon of worship in ancient Egypt, a rat-catching hero during the plague years in Europe, and labeled a familiar for witches in Puritan America.

While dogs have been trained to assist humans as hunters, guides, companions, and enforcers, cats have no obvious purpose other than their presence in one’s life. They’re simply not very trainable. Yet, the art of relaxation has been mastered by the cat, and this attribute is assimilated by its human owners. Nursing homes often have a resident cat who is there only to be petted by the residents.

The Cat in Literature and Art

The cat is not as independent as it appears. It wants to be loved and cared for, and the contradictory interaction between humans and cats has been the subject of many children’s books, novels, poems, and plays over the years. From fairy tales to Wanda Gäg’s classic “Millions of Cats” (1929) to the long-running broadway show “Cats,” based on T. S. Elliot’s “Old Possum’s Book of Practical Cats” (1939), to “The Marble Cake Cat” (1977) by Marjorie and Carl Allen; from Lewis Carroll’s Cheshire Cat in “Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland” (1865) to B. Kliban’s contemporary cartoon cats, the cat has long been a fascinating subject for both children and adults.

Breeds of Cats

Many people believe that the Siamese cat originated in Ancient Egypt, but it actually is from the Far East and thought to be a domestication of the Asian wild cat. The 30 to 40 recognized distinctive breeds of cats can be grouped into two general categories: the long-haired Persian and the domestic shorthair. Most cats, however, unless they are show cats, are mixed breed.

Cats Around the World

In America, cats as pets have long been popular. In most families where there are cats as pets, there is only one, possibly two cats. They’re not pack animals and don’t adjust well to living on their own outside the home. Stray cats tend to be loners. In other countries, cats are not as pampered as they are in American homes, and are sometimes a source of food.

If you’ve ever watched as a cat “flipped” over fresh catnip perhaps you’ve been struck with the question; “what causes Catnip to affect cats that way?” Catnip is indeed an unusual phenomenon among cats, it has the ability to alter your cat’s behavior like nothing else can. So what exactly is the reason for what scientists have coined as “the Catnip effect”?

Unfortunately for such inquisitive minds the exact reason of why Catnip affects cats
in such a manner remains mostly a mystery. There is however much that we do
know about Catnip and cats even if we don’t have the ultimate answer of exactly
“why?” yet answered.

The Science Stuff

Catnip is scientifically classified as Nepeta cataria and is a perennial herb from
the
mint family and is in fact also referred to as “Catmint”. It is a plant indigenous to
Europe but has been exported and is now found all over including the United States
and Canada.

The active ingredient in Catnip is an oil; Nepetalactone, which is found in the leaves
of the plant. This is the reason you are able to find Catnip in a bottle or spray form
in some pet stores.

Other Uses For Catnip

Catnip is not only good to stimulate activity in cats, it can also be used by
humans
as an herb for a medicinal tea which may soothe toothaches, help against coughs,
and may also perform as a sleep aid. Furthermore, Catnip can be used as an herb
on salads or other foods as has been the case for centuries in France. Lately Catnip
has also been garnering favor as a natural insect repellant rivaling the effectiveness
of many store bought varieties of repellant.

Catnip and Kitty

Catnip affects approximately half of all cats. What determines whether or not
a cat
will react to Catnip is a genome that is inherited (or not inherited as the case may
be) at birth. Kittens, regardless of whether or not they carry this genome, do not
react to Catnip until reaching about 3 or 4 months of age and becoming sexually
mature. Older cats are also more likely to have a diminished or non-existing
reaction to Catnip, which leads scientists to believe that the Catnip effect is based at
least partially on sexuality and that the reaction may be something like an
aphrodisiac. Further adding to this belief is the similarity of a sexual pheromone
found in the urine of the male cat to nepetalactone (the active product in Catnip).

Cats that can be traced to regions where Catnip is not indigenous appear to be
unaffected by Catnip. The domesticated housecat is not the only cat that may be
affected by Catnip. Larger cats can also be affected by the Catnip effect, felines
such as the bobcat, lynx, tiger and even lion are known to react much the same way
the common housecat would. It is interesting to note that while Catnip can act as a
stimulant when a cat sniffs it, it can conversely act as a relaxant if ingested.
Therefore, you may see a different, nearly opposite result depending on whether
your cat chooses to eat the Catnip you provide for him/her or merely sniffs it (the
latter being the more typical behavior).

How to Use Catnip With Your Cat

Catnip can prove to be a very useful tool for a few common problems with
your cat.
If you are lucky enough to have a cat that does react favorably to Catnip then here
are a couple of ideas for you and your furry little friend.

Catnip and Lazy Cats:

Catnip can be used to get a lazy cat off his or her butt. Some cats are
notoriously
lazy, choosing to sleep much of their day away in a nice golden patch of sunlight on
the living room carpet, only waking up to eat and gather some necessary attention
from their indulgent owners. If this sounds like your cat, you may soon see (if you
haven’t already) that your cat is becoming more and more round. This is generally
not a good thing. Catnip may be able to help. Presenting catnip to your cat
encourages activity (of course provided the cat sniffs rather than eats the herb).

Many adult cats will respond to Catnip in a manner that resembles their childlike
kitten hyperactivity, jumping, playing and running around as if it was given an
injection of kitty adrenaline, which in essence, is the case. The effect of Catnip on a
cat can last somewhere between two and fifteen minutes. If the latter is the case,
then this is a decent amount of exercise and will help keep your cat a little more
svelte than without a Catnip treatment. Furthermore, if you leave the Catnip out for
a few hours then your cat may return to the herb later (an hour or two after the
effect has worn off) and again react in an energetic fashion. So in this sense you
may consider Catnip sort of like a kitty energy drink.

Catnip and Cats That Scratch Furniture:

If you have a cat that seems bent on the destruction of your furniture then
Catnip
may again be able to come to the rescue. Cats can be frustratingly picky about just
about anything under the sun including where they want to sharpen their furniture
destroying claws. It is not uncommon for a cat to damage or destroy a piece of
furniture just because the owners finally gave up on trying to redirect their cat to
the unused cat scratching post that set them back anywhere up to a hundred dollars
and more. A good way to attempt to change this frustrating and expensive behavior
is to rub some Catnip or Catnip oil on a scratching post that you are attempting to
get the cat to use. Introduce your cat to the newly “Catnipped” scratching post and
see how he/she reacts. If all goes well, your cat will sniff and inspect the post and
then begin clawing at it. After a few times (you may have to re-Catnip the post)
hopefully kitty will be trained to use the post rather than the sofa.

Using Catnip with Multiple Cats

If you’ve never used Catnip before and you have more than one cat it is
advisable to
try it out individually on each cat before introducing it to all of your cats at the same
time. The reason is because Catnip affects some cats in a negative manner causing
the cat in question to become aggressive rather than merely playful. Introducing it
to your cats individually enables you to control the situation and keep a cat that may
react aggressively isolated from your other cats. This of course means avoiding a
possible catfight that could result in broken furniture, hurt kitties (possibly
requiring a vet visit), annoyed neighbors (and probably owners), or a combination of
all of the above.

Growing and Keeping Catnip

Growing your own Catnip can be rewarding as it can save you money, give you
the
satisfaction of doing something yourself and ensuring that you always get fresh,
high-quality Catnip for your cat. A word of caution however; the exact kitty
reaction you want to grow your own Catnip is something to be wary of. If you plan
on growing your Catnip out of doors and other cats can access your Catnip garden
then be prepared for unwelcome feline visitors. This may not be a problem for you
personally, but cats are by nature territorial and if you have a cat that lives alone
without the company of other cats this could prove to be an area of stress for your
cat. Even if you keep your cat inside at all times, your cat may get agitated if he/she
looks out the window to see another cat frolicking in territory your cat considers his
or her own. If you choose to grow your Catnip indoors, be careful to keep it out of
reach of kitty. Otherwise you’ll likely have Fluffy jumping up on furniture even to
the most out of the way place to get access to the tempting herb. Cats are great
jumpers and not really known for respecting precious household knick-knacks. So
if you do decide to grow it indoors for a cat that reacts to Catnip, be careful to grow
it in a place that your cat won’t be able to access it. A room that you always keep
closed to the cat is probably the best solution for indoor grown Catnip.

If you do find that your cat reacts positively to Catnip you should be sure to use it
sparingly so as not to dull the effect which can be the result of overexposure. A
good rule of thumb is to not treat your kitty more than once a week on average to
Catnip.

Given all the positive effects that Catnip may have on your cat you owe it to yourself
(and naturally your fluffy little ball of affection) to see how he/she reacts to this
strange and well known herb. It will provide enjoyment and exercise for your cat
and most likely an entertaining show for yourself as well. It’s a win win situation.

Most of us are familiar with a variety of cat sounds, including meows, hissing, growls and purrs. A meow can mean anything from “I want food” to “will you play with me?” to “hello there”. Some cats, such as Siamese cats, are much more vocal than others. No one knows exactly how the purring sound is made but it usually indicates contentment. Hissing and growling usually mean the cat feels threatened or unhappy about something. Cats, especially very young ones, might make these sounds when playing too.

Cats rarely meow when communicating amongst themselves. They use a combination of body language, tail movement, scent and eye contact. When communicating with humans, cats differ their sounds by rhythm, intensity, pitch, tone and volume, so we can take a reasonable guess at what they are trying to say.

Cats sometimes use sounds when communicating with one another too. If a kitten wanders off, the mother cat might meow loudly and clearly to call her offspring back to safety. A cat might hiss or growl if another cat or intrudes on its territory. A cat enjoying some prey it has hunted will also use these sounds to warn off another cat coming too close.

Cat Sense of Smell and Communication

A cat’s sense of smell is acute and highly developed. It is used in several ways to facilitate communication. Two cats living together will sniff each other several times a day. This tells the cats where the other has been, what they have been doing, what they have recently eaten and whether they came into contact with another animal. Cats detect pheromones left by other cats, usually when marking territory. If a cat could talk, it might ask these things verbally but a few sniffs tell them everything they need to know.

Cats living together often groom one another. This provides social interaction, removes parasites and keeps the fur clean. A mother cat recognises the scent of her own kittens and grooms them often to provide comfort, keep them clean and encourage bowel movements.

Cat Talk and Hierarchy

Hierarchy amongst cats is determined by the outcomes of social interactions between the cats. Some factors determining hierarchy include gender, the environment, reproductive status, age, size, aggressiveness and submissiveness.

Hierarchy between cats is different to hierarchy between dogs. Dogs are pack animals and exhibit dominant actions, such as growls, stares or body checks. Cats, on the other hand, don’t live or hunt in packs. If two or more cats live together, the hierarchy might be present but humans might not recognise the subtle dominance signals and cat secret talk is used to decide hierarchy. One sure-fire way to upset a hierarchy is to introduce a new cat. The newcomer’s status is unclear so the other cats will use their secret communication to sort the situation out.

Cat Communication and Territory

Cats are territorial animals. Their territory is usually a combination of places they share with other cats and other places they consider theirs and their alone. A cat marks its territory by urinating, scratching or rubbing its body on an object. Other cats can see these marks as clearly as signposts, telling them which other cat’s territory they are in. Cats can detect pheromones in urine or from a place where another cat has rubbed itself.

With so many ways of determining territory, hierarchy and much more, cats hardly need words!
What is Cat Secret Talk?

Most of us are familiar with a variety of cat sounds, including meows, hissing, growls and purrs. A meow can mean anything from “I want food” to “will you play with me?” to “hello there”. Some cats, such as Siamese cats, are much more vocal than others. No one knows exactly how the purring sound is made but it usually indicates contentment. Hissing and growling usually mean the cat feels threatened or unhappy about something. Cats, especially very young ones, might make these sounds when playing too.

Cats rarely meow when communicating amongst themselves. They use a combination of body language, tail movement, scent and eye contact. When communicating with humans, cats differ their sounds by rhythm, intensity, pitch, tone and volume, so we can take a reasonable guess at what they are trying to say.

Cats sometimes use sounds when communicating with one another too. If a kitten wanders off, the mother cat might meow loudly and clearly to call her offspring back to safety. A cat might hiss or growl if another cat or intrudes on its territory. A cat enjoying some prey it has hunted will also use these sounds to warn off another cat coming too close.

Cat Sense of Smell and Communication

A cat’s sense of smell is acute and highly developed. It is used in several ways to facilitate communication. Two cats living together will sniff each other several times a day. This tells the cats where the other has been, what they have been doing, what they have recently eaten and whether they came into contact with another animal. Cats detect pheromones left by other cats, usually when marking territory. If a cat could talk, it might ask these things verbally but a few sniffs tell them everything they need to know.

Cats living together often groom one another. This provides social interaction, removes parasites and keeps the fur clean. A mother cat recognises the scent of her own kittens and grooms them often to provide comfort, keep them clean and encourage bowel movements.

Cat Talk and Hierarchy

Hierarchy amongst cats is determined by the outcomes of social interactions between the cats. Some factors determining hierarchy include gender, the environment, reproductive status, age, size, aggressiveness and submissiveness.

Hierarchy between cats is different to hierarchy between dogs. Dogs are pack animals and exhibit dominant actions, such as growls, stares or body checks. Cats, on the other hand, don’t live or hunt in packs. If two or more cats live together, the hierarchy might be present but humans might not recognise the subtle dominance signals and cat secret talk is used to decide hierarchy. One sure-fire way to upset a hierarchy is to introduce a new cat. The newcomer’s status is unclear so the other cats will use their secret communication to sort the situation out.

Cat Communication and Territory

Cats are territorial animals. Their territory is usually a combination of places they share with other cats and other places they consider theirs and their alone. A cat marks its territory by urinating, scratching or rubbing its body on an object. Other cats can see these marks as clearly as signposts, telling them which other cat’s territory they are in. Cats can detect pheromones in urine or from a place where another cat has rubbed itself.

With so many ways of determining territory, hierarchy and much more, cats hardly need words!

Have you ever wondered where “today’s cat” came from?

I have and so I began a little research on the history of cats.

Apparently no one really knows when or how “the cat” first appeared on our planet.

According to some sources it is said that Miacis, a weasel-like animal that lived about 40 or 50 million years ago is the cat’s closest ancestor.

I have not been able to find any pictures or drawings of this animal, that is supposed to be the father/mother (if you will,) of all land-dwelling carnivores, including the dog.

Since I cannot prove otherwise, I will accept this information for as close to the truth as I can get.

According to a DNA study that was done in 1997 by two members of the National Cancer Institute in Frederick, Maryland, it appears that cats have been known to live in Asia as early as 11 million years ago and here in North America as early as 9 million years ago.

Their research was based on DNA analysis of 37 living cat species.

Millions of years ago, as sea level rose and fell, the earth formed natural bridges and the cats being nomadic creatures traveled all over to colonize, everywhere that is, except Antarctica according to some scientists.

Why not there? I believe cats were smart enough to know it was too cold.

If you are picturing in your mind a cat that looks like your cat wandering around the earth, forget it.

These cats did not look like our cats, some were big cats and some were smaller cats, it took a long while for “our cat” to emerge.

The 1997 study by the National Cancer Institute also helped determine that most of the 37 or so living species of cat that exist today, belonged to one of past eight lineage’s according to their DNA.

It is said that the first association of cats with humans may have occurred during the Stone Age.

Apparently, the cats figured out “where there were humans” there would be food and where there was food a mouse or two could be found.

However, it took a long time for cats to be considered household pets, as cats were considered useful, but wild beasts.

Then came the days of ancient Egypt.

The Egyptians about 5,00 to 6,000 years ago had learned how to stockpile grain for future use.

With the stockpiles of grain came mice and rats and a serious need occurred.

The Egyptians were the first civilization to domesticate the cat on a large scale and to make the world aware of the usefulness of the cat not only for catching mice and rats, but also as a household pet.

The Egyptians were so enamored with “the cat” and its importance in their lives that they not only allowed it in their households, they eventually worshipped the cat and treated it like royalty.

“The royalty treatment” is something the cat never forgot.

In Egypt when a cat died they were mummified and buried in elaborate ceremonies, even in the poorest of households.

Mice were mummified along with the cat, so that the cat would have food in is afterlife.

There were some cats that were considered sacred and they lived in the temples with the priests.

These cats were considered oracles and people would come from long distances to ask the cats questions. The priests would interpret the cat’s actions (such as licking its paw) and tell the visitor what the cat was saying.

It was considered a crime to kill a cat and if you were guilty of that crime, you were killed, too.

It has come to light during an archeological excavation in Saqqara, where thousands of cat mummies were found that all the cats did not die a natural death.

By x-raying some of the mummified cats it was revealed that many did die of natural causes, but some were young cats (year old) with broken necks.

There are two schools of thought here, one being that the cat population had grown too large and it was a way to slow it down.

The other possibility was that the priests raised these cats and later killed and mummified them to sell to people who attended festivals.

It was considered proper to buy a mummified cat as a way to please the “cat goddess” called Bastet and then ask a personal favor from her.

Researchers are fairly certain the people buying the cats did not know they were intentionally killed.

It did not take long for the word to get around (about a 1,000 years or so) about the usefulness
of cats in a household.

Soon the Romans and Greeks realized the value of a cat and made them members of their household. Here they were not worshipped.

During the 11th century cats became extremely important in killing the rats that were causing the Black Death.

Then came the Middle Ages and trouble followed for the cats.

Pope Gregory IX apparently did not like cats and decided that they were diabolical creatures and needed to be destroyed.

It was a sad time for cats as they were beaten, killed and driven away from the villages.

Anyone who had a cat was considered a “witch” and was put to death along with the cat.

Cats were sacrificed, burned to death and even buried alive inside walls of houses (supposed to bring good luck.)

As the cat population was being destroyed, the rat and mice population grew by leaps and bounds.

Causing a great many plagues and other epidemics all over Europe.

People were dying everywhere and soon they realized the error of their ways.

By the 17th century, cats were back in favor, doing what they did best, catching mice and rats.

However, people began to see that cats were nice to have around and soon they became treasured household pets once again.

It has been said that the first cats came to North America by crossing over the Bering Strait about several million years or so ago.

However, in more recent times (1600-1700) cats came on board ships with the traders and explorers. Cats were very important on board ships in order to protect the cargo from the rats and mice.

Many early settlers in the colonies brought their own cats with them. Life seemed pretty good for cats until the Salem witch-hunt of 1692 and once again cats became a product of discrimination along with the people who owned them and were destroyed or driven away.

Once again “people” learned the error of their ways and cats were once again welcome as the rat and mice population grew.

In 1749 cats were brought to Pennsylvania to help control a serious rodent plague.

As more and more colonists came to the New World the need for cats grew. It was necessary to import cats and the new cats needed to be stronger and sturdier.

Without cats, the New World would have faced many plagues and ships would have lost much of their cargo.

You might say “cats” saved our country.

As time went on and our country grew, people started moving west.

They packed up their worldly possessions into wagons, gathered up the family and livestock and forgot the cats.

They seemed to forget, that where there were people and food (grain) soon there would be rodents.

It’s Murphy’s Law.

It is said that during the Gold Rush of 1849, people were buying cats off trading ships for $50.00 a piece.

In 1884 during the rat plague that came to San Francisco, people were willing to pay up to $100 for a cat.

Cats like our country prospered and like the people, cats came from all countries of the world. This mix of cats and the breeding that took place has managed to give our country a great mix of what is known as “domestic shorthaired.”

Today there are more than sixty-five million cats living in our homes. Cats far outnumber dogs.

The number of actual breeds varies according to the source you check. Some sources say that there are 36 species, others say 37 species, but we have found with the new breeds coming along that there are probably over 40 different varieties of cats.

This has been a very brief history of cats; they certainly have played a very important part in the growth of the Universe.

It is hard for me to imagine life without having at least one of them around and I hope you feel the same.

Is it in the cat’s best interest to be included in the travel plans?

Many people like to take their animals with them as they travel. While cats are most comfortable in their home environment, some cats can adapt to travel rather well. Certain life situations such as relocation, an extended stay with a relative who is ill, or a serious relationship headed toward marriage or cohabitation, may require your cat travels with you on an as needed or routine basis. I discourage traveling with cats, because they are incredible athletic and it’s is extremely easy to loose your pet as you pack, travel, stop at rest areas and once you’ve reached your new destination. Most cats get very nervous traveling and may become dehydrated or ill. If you are relocating, your cat is likely to become agitated and may try to run away before or after your move. If it’s in the best interest of your pet to include them in your travel plans, or if you are relocating, the following tips may help.

Preparation.

Before you plan a trip with your cat make sure that the pet will have a safe place to stay once you reach your destination. When you stay at a hotel, even if you’ve stayed at the same hotel dozens of times, confirm each time you travel that they still accept pets. When you stay with friends, don’t assume they will love your cat as much as you do, and make sure no one has a cat allergy. Find out if they have pets and whether their pet is very friendly with all animals in their home. Many friendly dogs and cats become very aggressive when another animal is placed in their home. Most often, I discourage anyone from subjecting a cat to another animal for a short period of time. It’s traumatic to most cats and increases the likelihood your cat will run away–given any small opportunity.

Help your cat love the carrier.

Several weeks prior to your trip or move, purchase a cat carrier for each cat. It should be large enough for them to stretch, turn around and lie down. If you have more than two cats, they all get along very well, you have a long trip, and you have a vehicle like a mini-van, you may want to consider buying a dog kennel that will accommodate all your cats. Whether you’re using a cat carrier or a dog kennel, pad the bottom of the carrier with a fluffy towel, or an old sweatshirt. If the towel or sweatshirt smells like you, your cats comfort level is increased. Get the cat comfortable with the carrier a few weeks before you travel. Keep the carrier door open and feed them in or around the carrier. For example if you have two cats and two cat carriers, I suggest placing a little wet food in each carrier at meal time. Do this 3-4 times a week for a few weeks before your trip. Leave the carrier door open so the cat can leisurely walk in and out of the carrier.

Avoid injury and minimize trauma for the cat.

Never haul cats in a carrier in the back of a pick up truck exposed to wind, weather and the elements. If you’re moving and renting a moving truck, keep the cat in the carrier with you in the truck cab. Never load a cat in the back of a loaded truck or moving van. The carrier and your cat could get crushed as your belongings shift. You could kill or injure your pet.

What to do when your trip or move is in the near future.

Shortly before you begin your trip or move, locate and pack your pet’s health certificate or veterinary records. When you travel with pets the rabies vaccine must be current. Many states have additional requirements. If your pet needs any vaccinations, get these done at least two weeks prior to your trip. This gives the cat an opportunity to recover from the vaccinations, and minimizes the risk of illness. Tape the health certificates or veterinarian records to the top of each carrier. Be sure your veterinarian’s phone number is on the record as well in case you have an emergency or a law enforcement official needs to check your records. If you do not normally use a collar on your indoor pet, it would be good to do so now. Write your phone number on the collar so it can be read from a distance, and make sure it’s easy to read. It’s wonderfully, shocking how many lost cats are reunited with their guardian because their collar had a phone number.

If you are relocating, your pet is old, or your trip is more than a couple hours, purchase a small, flexible, disposable litter pan for each cat. These can be placed in the carrier (before you load the cat in the carrier) the day you travel. Your cat may lie in the litter, but it encourages your cat to use the litter pan. If your trip is less than two hours, a towel or sweatshirt in the bottom of the carrier is sufficient.

The night before your trip or relocation.

Keep cats enclosed in a familiar area, such as a bedroom or kitchen-make sure they have a litter box available. Cats seem to be amazingly psychic and like to hide the day of the trip. Put the carrier in the room and leave the carrier door open. This will make it easier to load the cat in the carrier in the morning. Feed the cat its normal meal the night before your trip, but do not over feed. You may want to try and use an herbal produce called pet remedy. I use this every time I relocate with my cats and it helps reduce their stress. At least 5-6 hours before your trip remove all food. Remove water a few hours before your trip.

On your day of travel

Make sure your vehicle is packed first and in such a way as to leave room for the carrier(s). Pack the cat(s) last. Be patient! If your cat has been easily going into the carrier with a little food try to get them to do so again. If they won’t go in, pick them up, gently place them on the floor in front the carrier with their tail or butt near the carrier’s open door-you are going to back them into the carrier. Keep one hand around the cat’s ribcage, take your other hand and with an open palm press against the cats face so they will back into the carrier. It helps to have the carrier back against a wall. Once the cat has back into the carrier, keep one hand on the cat and gentle swing the door closed as much as possible. Slide your hand out but keep an open palm as you close and lock the door. This keeps the cat from bolting out of the carrier. Make sure the carrier door is secure and load your cat in the car. Try to get this right the first time. The more often you’re unsuccessful at loading your cat in the carrier, the more difficult this procedure becomes. Feel free to practice this once or twice several weeks prior to your trip. (When practicing prior to your trip, open the cat door immediately after a successful load, and give your cat a treat or meal.)

Begin your journey.

Now that you and your cat are safely in the car you can breathe a sigh of relief. Most cats meow for up to an hour as you begin your trip. I’ve had some cats that meowed a few minutes and then settled down, and other cats who let out blood curdling cries for an hour. Sometimes it helps to cover the carrier with a dark, but breathable fabric, or you can cover ¾ of the carrier, leaving the door uncovered. Covering or partially covering a carrier helps a cat feel more secure. Make sure the cats are kept in moderate temperature at all times during your trip. Also, play soothing music as you drive, and as much as possible ignore them. The most important thing you can do now is arrive at your destination safely. If your trip is less than six hours, leave your cat in the carrier until you arrive at your destination. The only thing you need to monitor is how much the cat pants. Since cats do not perspire, they will pant when their heart beat is elevated and when they are hot. It’s normal to see some panting because a car ride is very stressful for most cats. If you see excessive panting, your cat drools or begins convulsions stop as soon as possible and call your veterinarian.

Upon arrival

Carry your cat (in the carrier) inside the new destination and place the cat in a single secured room, such as a bedroom or kitchen. If you have multiple cats, bring all the cats in first, before you open any carrier doors. Also, bring in a litter pan and water bowl. When you open the carrier door, let your cat come out by themselves. Be sure your cats have continuous access to water during as you settle into your new surroundings. It’s best to keep the cat in a single room or small area until, you are certain the cat could not get out. If the cat is an indoor/outdoor cat and you’ve relocated-even if it’s in the same city, keep your cat indoors for 14 days. If a cat has just been relocated or is in a new environment and gets out during the first few days it’s very likely to get lost, become disoriented, and maybe hit and killed by a car.

The week following a trip or move.

Watch for signs of illness and dehydration. It’s normal for some cats to have diarrhea, sleep even more than normal, or vomit once or twice the day after the trip. If these conditions do not clear up in a day or two, if you notice blood in the urine or stool, or if the cats skin can be pulled and does not spring back into the body, seek veterinary care immediately. The sooner you catch and treat illness or dehydration, the more likely and quicker the cat will return to good health.

Final thoughts.

Every cat is different. I once had an orange tabby that loved to ride in the car with me. He ran to the front door when I picked up my car keys. I never used a carrier with him. He peacefully sat on my lap every time we got in the car. I currently have a large grey tabby that likes to ride in non-motorized boats. You know your cat better than anyone else. Check with your veterinarian if you have questions about the best way to travel with or relocate your cat. Keep in mind that cats are athletic and like security. Many easy going cats get agitated, dehydrated or run away while traveling or moving, so please use caution with your pet.

Many people think their cat’s behaviors are because the cat was abused or neglected. I want to clear this up for you. Abused cats are rare. Most cats are just wary of strangers. Bad behavior is usually because they were never taught correctly or played with aggressively. So, how can you identify an abused or neglected cat? Let’s look at what cat abuse and neglect look like and then we can talk about the cat’s responses:

Cat Abuse can be intentional or unintentional. Usually, unintentional abuse is called “neglect” and is addressed by humane societies all over the world. There are actually three levels of abuse. Neglect, Over-Discipline (over use of discipline tools) and Intentional Abuse. This article addresses the Neglect, which is the most benign form of abuse.

Description of Neglect -

Neglect means not addressing the animal’s primary needs for survival – water, food, shelter, rest and hygienic elimination. Then there is the more severe type, where a cat is forced to live in filth, confined to a cage all the time, or denied companionship with people or other animals. Many times, this can be caused by not spaying or neutering your pet. Unwanted kittens, or too many cats, is the primary cause for almost all of this type of abuse. Sometimes, a person is too ill or has allergies. Maybe a person is trying to keep a cat in an environment that makes it impossible to properly care for a cat.

I remember many years ago, seeing a homeless man walking down the street with his belongings in a shopping cart. Homeless people were harder to find then, so he stood out. He was pushing the cart with one hand and had a carrier with a cat in it, in the other. I felt sorry for both, but being a child, I didn’t know what to do. The cat was experiencing neglect, but felt much love. The man, I’m sure, didn’t know he was doing harm to the cat. He just knew that he couldn’t let his beloved cat go into a shelter – at that time all the shelters I knew of were kill-shelters.

An older cat (over a year) has little chance of coming out of a kill shelter. Most people want a kitten. The grown cats are often given no more than 2 weeks to find a home and then euthanized. This heartbreaking situation often occurs when people lose their homes, develop allergies or find that they just don’t want to deal with the discipline and behavior problems that developed in the cat. The single biggest reason people give up a cat is inappropriate elimination. Next, come allergies, followed by death of the cat’s owner. Some cats are surrendered because the person moves and is unable to find pet-friendly accommodations.

I understood the man’s feelings of love and concern for his feline companion. I also understood that the cat couldn’t live in that carrier for long. There was no safe place for them. No homeless shelter would take a man with a cat. In this case, I think the abuse is unintentional – neglect, by description. However, I think the heart of both the cat and the man were in the right place, just that the situation was unfortunate.

In news reports, we sometimes hear of breeding farms where cats are bred to the point of exhaustion and kept in sub-optimal conditions. We hear of people who just keep bringing home strays until they are over-run and can no longer take care of them, and the cats become a neighborhood problem. All of these situations can produce neglect.

Now, let’s turn to the cat’s response to neglect. How does a cat respond? Why does it do that? By understanding the specific situation and response, we can address the resulting problem behaviors with love, patience and training.

Effects of Neglect

A cat left in a cage with other animals nearby is often skittish and afraid of people. It expects food and a clean litter box on occasion, but cuddles and attention may make it uncomfortable. These cats often have no privacy issues in the cage, but once free, they are very private about their litter habits. If the cat was kept in a small carrier, it may soil itself, or hold back elimination until it is very uncomfortable. It may be dehydrated and need medical attention. The cat will be overweight from lack of activity. It may be apathetic when play is offered, not knowing what is expected. Electric lights may be something that set off a fear response in the cat because it means that people are coming. In other cases, darkness may be scary at first. Once the cat’s eyes adjust to the light level, it will be all right, but when the lights are turned off or on, the cat may cry or hiss. In the case of a cat kept in the dark except when people are coming, it may be fearful the entire time the lights are on, while also expecting food, water and a clean litter box to be provided.

What Can We Do to Help These Cats?

These cats don’t do well with handling. The less you try to pet, hold or cuddle these cats at first, the better. Let the cat come to you. It will, given time. Be sure to care for it’s creature comforts – food, water, bed, clean litter box – but don’t expect a cuddly cat for a while. That will come when the cat feels that it can trust you. It may be afraid of the sound of your feet on the floor. It may run when you come into a room. As time goes on, the cat will stay and just watch you. Another time, you may be able to approach and offer a scratch behind the ear. Eventually, you will be able to give a full cuddle. Do not try to pick the cat up, but you can pet it and the cat won’t run away or feel assaulted. When the cat responds with a purr, an offer of a cheek or an ear, or you can stroke the spine and the cat isn’t trying to run away, then you have a cat that is only cautious of you. Continue until the cat comes for cuddles, which may already be happening. Still do not try to pick the cat up. If it wants your lap, it will come. This cat may still run from you if discovered in a windowsill, on a dresser or surprised in the litter box. Say your cat’s name in a conversational tone and the cat will eventually not run away and perhaps allow a stroke. In the case of the litter box, just say the cat’s name, but never try to cuddle a cat in the litter box. If you can provide a privacy screen, the cat may stay in the room.

These cats need socialization. They need to learn to live with others outside of a cage. They need gentle discipline and may not know the meaning of the word “no.” They will love feeding time but be afraid if you need to walk near their food bowls, and run from the food. Give them time, move slowly and talk gently in their vicinity. They need to learn what people are about in a good way.

Once your cat has learned to trust you a little bit, enough to not run away when you enter a room or even starts to come to you, then you can begin to bond with your cat. A tickler wand is your best friend for this. Gently shake the wand so that the end twitches. Your cat will be interested, but may only watch at first. If your cat goes for it, excellent! When your cat gets hold of the business end of the wand, allow your cat to feel the success by keeping the wand steady for a few moments. When the cat lets go, you can start to twitch it again. The cat will play with you in this manner for quite a while. When the cat tires, put the wand up out of the way so that your cat is forced to play with you, not just the wand. If your cat grabs the wand in it’s mouth and tries to run away with it, offer resistance and don’t let go of the wand. Some cats want to take the wand and hide it under a couch or in a corner so they can worry over it for a while. Don’t allow this – the cat needs to play with you, not just the wand. After about ten days of playing with the wand, you will see your cat become more accepting of its new circumstances. Your cat should assimilate into the household well. There may be people it does not accept, and those persons can also play with the cat to promote bonding.

Under no circumstances should you perpetuate the abuse or neglect! Any discipline needs to be done gently and with care. A squirt bottle, long a favorite tool for discipline, should only be used in the beginning stages of training, while the cat is learning the word “no.” After that, you should not need it. Redirection is your best training technique. When your cat gets into or expresses interest in something that you don’t want to see it getting involved with, redirect it’s attention to something that it is allowed to be involved with or have.

Some of these cats can be clicker trained, but the bond with the person needs to be present, first. Concentrated training to condition the cat to the clicker will be needed. Some cats may be so skittish that even the best treats will not condition the cat to the clicker. If your cat runs from the clicker after a week of conditioning, do not continue. Your cat will never be comfortable with the unexpected noise it makes. You are better clapping your hands and saying “no” to stop bad behaviors than trying to clicker train for positive behaviors.

These cats will be extremely grateful for good treatment. One expression of that love, biting, may not be acceptable – especially if the cat bites hard and uses the canine teeth. Push your hand or finger into the mouth instead of pulling out so that the cat will not be able to bite down and cause you injury. You can push in hard enough to cause the gag reflex, but never harder. Never cause the cat injury in response to an injury to your person. Hitting is never acceptable – but raising a flat hand so that the eyebrow whiskers can feel it is acceptable.

If you must pick up your cat, as in putting the cat in the carrier or removing it to another room, pay attention to the cat’s body. Be sure to pick the cat up by the ribs and the hind legs at the same time to minimize stress to the cat. If the body is stiff, don’t hold the cat to your chest. Allow the cat to struggle, but stay out of the way of the claws. When you place the cat down (don’t let it jump), stroke its back if you can. Talk to the cat. It will stop a few paces away and look at you. The cat may come to you for a scratch if offered. Always talk softly and lovingly to your cat.

In Closing -

With all these admonitions and dos and don’ts, you may think that a neglected cat is too much trouble. Not that much, really. They take some time getting used to people, but once they trust you and know you have their best interests at heart, these cats will come to love you very much. The early stages with a neglected cat are the most critical. After that, you may find a loving, caring, demanding cat. Demanding because it may never want to be separated from you. Demanding because whatever it was denied before it will crave from you. Moreover, you will be loved, very deeply. It will care about you in its fashion. If your are down or blue, possibly sick, the cat will worry over you and try to find a way to comfort you. These cats are very responsive to their people. Hypersensitive is a good description. Empathic is another good description of their behavior. Some cats even approach a symbiotic relationship with their people.

Give love and patience, and love and patience will be returned. Give concern and care and those are returned. A neglected cat is one of the best pets for a single, older person. The cat will be tuned to that person in short order. It will give love and affection to ease the loneliness and loss these people sometimes experience. When the person is ill, the cat will understand and be there to comfort, while allowing the person to care for him or herself.